![]() ![]() Next I hooked up the coolant sensor circuit but unplugged the cold start solenoid. Well the fuse didn't blow and the solenoid activated as it should. So continuing troubleshooting, I first only connected the wire that brings in the 12v from the fuse that keeps blowing to see if the solenoid was causing the fuse to blow. It gets turned on by a coolant temp sensor that is located right there above the injection pump tapped into the coolant fitting on the side of the head. Now there is another connection at the injection pump that powers the cold start solenoid on the bottom of the injection pump. Turn the key on without the fuse blowing. Finally I decided to disconnect all of the wiring at the injection pump and see if the fuse blew. The fuse in the fuse block still blew when I turned the key on. I thought the bad connection was causing the other fuse in the fuse block to blow. I replaced that with a heavy gauge wire with a new fuse holder. That's where I thought the problem was because that fuse was also blown and the wire connected to the solenoid was a very small gauge and was almost broke off. A wire went from the GM tilt wheel starter switch to the starter solenoid with it's own in line fuse to pull battery power. Now the circuit that runs the fuel solenoid was simple. That side of the buss is not fused so all lighting wiring is unfused and hot at all time. Found some dumb stuff like he pulled main power from the always on buss for the lighting. On a test run, the sump filled with fuel up to the dip stick. ![]() I have a Doosan compressor powered by a JD 4024 with only 1900 hrs. Joined Messages 1 Tractor JD 4024 Doosan compressor. The good thing about this is it forced me to research the harness design. fuel in oil jd 4024 sump full of fuel / Fuel in oil sump (a lot of fuel) 1. Put a new one in and it popped as soon as I turned the key on. I found the fuse that powers that circuit and it was blown. Being this is a rat rod, the wiring harness is custom made by the previous owner who wasn't all that good at electrical. Next I had to find the electrical culprit in the wiring. Long story short, jumping the fuel solenoid that is under the cover plate inside the Stanadyne injection pump, to 12v, got it to start. I did a little research to troubleshoot it. Recently something happened and it would crank but not start. and the long one wont work because after a few turns it pins the ratchet and socket against the wall.I have a 1928 Ford Model A Tudor with a John Deere 4.5L Powertech diesel. the short sockets wont work because it puts the large dia of the ratchet too close to the unit. I removed the fuel tank, fuel filter, fuel lines. I decided I would clean the whole system thoroughly. But even after some time it was still a little hard starting. Kept cleaning everything till I could get it to run. I cut down a 1/4 drive deep 10 MM socket. Kubota MX5400, JD 655, JD 535M, JD425, Exmark Radius S zero turn (Previous JD 4400 HST) Tractor had fuel contaminated. im thinking yours may have the same issue.i found it online in a video.good luck. since the new one I bought did the same thing so fast.I left the rear (difficult) bolt out, and when it happens again, ill just remove the front one, take the unit out.squeeze it to flush the oil and re-install. then its good for a while m,aybe a month or 2. once out you can squeeze the rod several times and oil will flush out. ![]() ![]() so remove the back one first, then the easy one last. but the oil causes a hydraulic block to the rod. some how oil gets BEHIND the rod that retracts when you turn the key, which WOULD allow fuel to flow. I even replaced the unit last summer ans it also went bad. Its probably the solenoid that shuts off fuel from the fuel pump to the injectors block. ![]()
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